What Is Chromexcel Leather?

Chromexcel is a cowhide leather made by Horween Leather Co. in Chicago: chrome-tanned, retanned with bark extracts, then hot-stuffed with oils and waxes. The stuffing gives it a strong pull-up, so it lightens where it is bent. Chromexcel is one tannery's product name, not a general leather type.

This definition is part of our guide to leather types, textures and finishes.

How Chromexcel is made

Its maker says Chromexcel, or "CXL," goes through at least 89 separate processes over 28 working days. The main stages:

1. Chrome base tan using chrome salts. A shoemaker says this step gives the leather its name.
2. Vegetable retan with proprietary bark-extract blends.
3. Hot stuffing in steamed mills with oils, waxes and greases, including food-grade beef tallow and cosmetic-grade beeswax.
4. Hand-rubbed aniline finish, meaning dye with no pigment, in several coats.
5. A final coat of neatsfoot oil.

Using both chrome and vegetable tannins means the leather is combination tanned. Latigo is another combination-tanned leather.

In this short history, Ashland Leather Co. explains how Horween developed Chromexcel as a combination-tanned leather and shows the pull-up as the oils and waxes move when the leather flexes. The 1913 start date and the early use for engine seals and gaskets are the channel's own account; the sources behind this page do not cover the leather's history.

What animal is Chromexcel?

Cattle. Horween sells Chromexcel as side (cowhide) leather from 3.5-4 oz (1.4-1.6 mm) up to 9-10 oz (3.6-4.0 mm), plus 2-3 oz (0.8-1.2 mm) horsefronts. The tannery says "cowhide" almost always means steerhide in its plant.

Is Chromexcel full grain?

Sources disagree. Leather retailers describe it as full-grain, with a rich natural grain. A boot retailer says Horween uses top-grain leather with a more uniform look. Horween's own product description read for this article says "full aniline" but uses neither grade term. Ask the maker of a specific boot or bag.

Is Chromexcel a pull-up leather?

Yes. Horween calls it "the original pull-up leather". Pull-up is the temporary lightening caused by oils and waxes moving when the leather flexes. One retailer notes that black Chromexcel shows little pull-up. Our pull-up leather page explains the effect and how to test for it.

How Chromexcel wears and how to care for it

A shoemaker that uses Chromexcel says it lightens, darkens, scuffs and softens with wear, and creases are defined but soft. It calls the leather low maintenance. A boot retailer adds that it is softer than many boot leathers, so uppers can turn "floppy" over time.

For conditioning, Horween's first recommendation is neatsfoot oil. Compare other oiled finishes on our greasy leather page.

Where to see an oiled pull-up finish

No Chromexcel or Horween leather turns up in the Leather Collection catalog. The closest finish it sells is crazy horse, a waxed cowhide whose color shifts when bent or rubbed: the Leather Collection crazy horse travel bag is 1.2-1.4 mm (about 0.05 in) thick. It is not Chromexcel.

FAQ

Is Chromexcel leather good for boots?

A boot retailer calls it excellent for heritage boots and some work boots, if you want its look and feel. The same retailer warns it is softer than many boot leathers. Horween offers waterproof versions.