What Is Leather? Definition, Materials, and Uses

Leather is animal hide or skin that has been tanned so it no longer rots. Tanning stabilizes the skin's collagen, so the material dries flexible instead of hard and does not putrefy when it gets wet again. Most leather comes from cattle, and it is used for shoes, bags, clothing, furniture and equipment.

This definition page is part of our guide to leather types, textures and finishes. The step-by-step making process is covered in what leather is and how it is made.

Leather meaning

Dictionaries define leather as animal skin treated to preserve it. The European definition used by the Leather Working Group is stricter. It says leather is hide or skin with its original fiber structure more or less intact, tanned to be imputrescible, with any surface coating no thicker than 0.15 mm.

In everyday speech "leathers" also means a riding suit: pants and a jacket worn for protection on a motorcycle.

What counts as leather, and what does not

For US bags, small leather goods, belts and footwear, FTC guidance says the unqualified word "leather" should only describe products made in all substantial parts of leather. Labels are compared in what genuine leather means and bonded leather.

What materials leather is made from

Animals. Cattle hides make up about 65% of leather, sheep about 13%, goats about 11% and pigs about 10%. Buffalo, horse, ostrich and reptile skins are also used. The trade calls big animals' coverings hides and small animals' skins.

Layers. The epidermis is about 1% of skin thickness; the corium beneath it is the true leather-forming layer. The outer grain is the densest part, which is why grain leathers are graded above splits.

Tanning agents. Chrome salts tan 85-90% of modern leather; plant tannins from bark are the oldest method. See vegetable-tanned leather and cowhide for the two most common names on labels.

What leather is used for

Leather goes into clothing, footwear, handbags, furniture, tools and sports equipment, and can last for decades. More than half of bovine hides end up in footwear. Chrome-tanned leather mostly becomes shoes, car seats and upholstery, while vegetable-tanned leather goes into crafted small goods. The longer list is in common uses of leather, and the material question in is leather a fabric?.

Where to see the hide named

Leather Collection men's leather jackets are made in cowhide, sheepskin, lambskin or goatskin, and the store says cowhide feels firmer while sheepskin and lambskin drape more.

FAQ

Is leather from cows or horses?

Mostly cows: cattle supply about 65% of leather. Horse hide is used too, including shell cordovan.

What are the three types of leather?

There is no standard list of three. Lists usually mean grades: full-grain, top-grain and split.

What material is real leather?

Tanned animal hide or skin with its fiber structure more or less intact.