Leather Properties and Care
Is Nubuck Leather Waterproof?
No. Nubuck's buffed nap takes on water; it beats suede but is not waterproof. Waterproof nubuck boots rely on a membrane liner. Here is what to check.
No. Nubuck is top-grain leather buffed on its outer (grain) side into a short nap, and that open surface takes on water: a drop darkens it until it dries. It is more water-resistant than suede, but neither is fully waterproof. When a nubuck boot is sold as waterproof, a membrane liner inside the boot does that job, not the leather.
This answer is part of our guide to leather properties and care.
Why nubuck takes on water
Nubuck is top-grain leather, today usually cowhide or calfskin, whose outer surface is sanded into a nap. Shoemakers class it with suede as an open-pored leather that needs its own protection. It wears well but scratches easily.
So yes, you can wet nubuck. Water drops darken it for a while, and it dries back to its original color. For what nubuck is and how it differs from suede, see what nubuck leather is.
Nubuck vs suede vs oiled leather in the wet
If the choice is oiled leather or nubuck for wet weather, oiled leather has the edge, because oil improves its resistance and nubuck needs a gentle spray that does not seal its nap. Smooth leathers are covered in is leather water resistant? and is cow leather waterproof?.
In this video from the boot maker ALTBERG, the presenter explains that nubuck is a sanded leather that breathes well but will not match a waxed ("amphibious") leather when the ground stays wet. Watch the part where he greases one side of a nubuck boot: he says that change is permanent and cannot be undone, which is the same trade-off this page warns about with wax on nubuck.
| Material | In the wet | Fact |
|---|---|---|
| Nubuck (grain side buffed into a nap) | More water-resistant than suede, not waterproof | – |
| Suede | Less water-resistant than nubuck, not waterproof | – |
| Oiled leather | Oiling improves water resistance | – |
| Membrane-lined nubuck boot | A sealed membrane bootie inside keeps water out; the outer has a water-repellent finish | – |
What "waterproof" means on nubuck boots
Inside GORE-TEX footwear, the membrane is laminated to a lining, sewn into a sock-shaped bootie with taped seams and set inside the boot. The outer leather is chosen by the boot brand to meet Gore's water-repellency standards, which is a separate job from the membrane's. So check the product details for a membrane before you rely on a nubuck boot in rain.
The outer still needs care. Dubbin wax is made for smooth leather, and on nubuck it can spoil the nap and is likely to stain. Leather Collection's care instructions also advise a water and stain repellent to help prevent water stains.
For the steps, use hosob.com's nubuck care guide. If a soaking left the leather tight, read does leather shrink when it gets wet?
FAQ
Can you wet nubuck?
Yes. Water darkens nubuck for a while and it dries back to its original color. It is still not waterproof.
Which is better, oiled leather or nubuck leather?
For rain, oiled leather, since oiling improves water resistance. Nubuck needs a gentler spray that does not seal its surface.
HitKB Editorial Team
HitKB articles are researched from published sources, cited in the text, and reviewed before publication.