Leather Types
Nubuck Leather Meaning: Sanded Grain With a Velvet Feel
Nubuck is top-grain leather, usually cowhide or calfskin, sanded on the outer side to a velvety nap. What it is made of, the name, and how it handles water.
Nubuck is real leather whose outer grain side has been sanded or buffed to a short, velvety nap. It is top-grain leather, today usually cowhide or calfskin. The name joins "new" and "buck", after the young deer hides it was first made from.
This definition is part of our guide to leather types, textures and finishes.
What nubuck leather is made of
One shoemaker says cowhide took over from deer because it is easier to get and cheaper. A store example: a bomber jacket in 0.8-0.9 mm brown cowhide with a nubuck finish, "lightly sanded on the outer side".
| Question | Answer | Fact |
|---|---|---|
| Which animal? | Today mostly cowhide or calfskin; traditionally deer or elk | – |
| Which layer? | The top grain, worked on its outer side | – |
| What is done to it? | Sanded or buffed to raise a short nap | – |
| Is there a coating? | No continuous surface coat, unlike pigmented smooth leather | – |
Nubuck meaning: dictionaries disagree on the side
Most sources say nubuck is buffed on the grain, the outer side of the hide. The Collins dictionary instead defines it as leather rubbed on the flesh side. That flesh-side wording is closer to how sources define suede, which is made from the underside of the skin.
Where the name comes from
Wikipedia gives new + buck(skin), from the young deer hides first used. One leather-bag seller also suggests the German "noppa" (to buff), without a source. The name "new buck" points back to buckskin.
Nubuck vs suede vs smooth leather
If you are choosing between the two napped leathers, read nubuck vs suede. How nubuck compares with an unsanded grain is covered in nubuck vs smooth leather.
| Column 1 | Nubuck | Suede | Smooth grain |
|---|---|---|---|
| Side worked | Outer grain, sanded | Underside of the skin | Grain left smooth |
| Strength | Stronger and thicker than suede | Softer, less durable | Full-grain is usually rated highest |
| Marks | Scratches easily | Gets dirty easily | Aniline scratches easily; a coated finish adds protection |
What happens to nubuck when it gets wet?
Water drops darken nubuck for a while, and it dries back to its color. A shoemaker adds that hard or dirty water can leave watermarks. Neither nubuck nor suede is fully waterproof; details are in is nubuck leather waterproof?
Is nubuck a low-quality leather?
No. Nubuck is made from the top grain, not a split. At the other end of the scale, bonded leather is shredded fibers bonded onto a backing, with 10% to 90% leather content, and US guidance says it should not be sold simply as leather; see what bonded leather is.
Its weak point is the surface: sanding leaves it more prone to scratches and stains than finished or coated leather. The store's own advice for its Leather Collection nubuck bomber jacket is to brush it gently and keep it dry.
FAQ
What kind of leather is nubuck?
Top-grain leather, usually cowhide or calfskin, sanded on the outer side.
Is nubuck real leather?
Yes, it is animal hide; only the surface is sanded. The label question is covered in is nubuck real leather?
HitKB Editorial Team
HitKB articles are researched from published sources, cited in the text, and reviewed before publication.