Leather Types
What Is Split Cowhide Leather?
Split cowhide is real leather from a lower layer of the hide, with no grain surface. How a cowhide is split, what splits become, and split vs top grain.
Split cowhide is leather made from a lower layer of a cowhide, after the top grain layer has been sliced away. It is real leather, but it has no grain surface. European definitions say it should be called "split leather" or "suede leather," not plain "leather". It is often sold as suede, or coated and embossed to look like grain.
This definition is part of our guide to leather types, textures and finishes. The general term for any animal is covered in what split-grain leather is.
How a cowhide is split
A splitting machine slices the hide horizontally into at least two layers. One leather seller says cowhides are about 0.2–0.4 in (5–10 mm) thick before splitting.
In the Tusting workshop, Gillian Tusting runs leather through a splitting machine and holds up the grain layer and the split that comes off beneath it. She also shows that a split can be given a plastic coating and a printed grain, the route described below for bicast.
| Layer | Standard name | Usual use |
|---|---|---|
| Top, with the grain | Grain split | Top-grain and full-grain leather |
| Middle (heavy hides only) | Middle split | Split leather |
| Bottom, flesh side | Flesh split | Split leather, cheaper than the grain split |
What split cowhide becomes
- Suede: splits from thick cow hides are sueded, but the nap comes out shaggier than lamb or goat suede. See what suede leather is.
- Bicast: a split coated with polyurethane or vinyl and embossed with a fake grain. See what bicast leather is.
- "Genuine leather" goods: that label is not a grade and often marks heavily processed split leather. See what genuine leather means.
Split vs top-grain cowhide
How much strength a thin split loses varies a lot by animal. In studies cited for kangaroo leather, calf split to 20% of its thickness kept only 1–4% of its tensile strength.
| Column 1 | Split cowhide | Top-grain cowhide |
|---|---|---|
| Surface | No grain; napped or coated | Keeps the grain, the densest fibres |
| Strength | Looser fibres, more prone to tearing (seller view) | Stronger, more tear resistant (seller view) |
| Cost | Lower (seller view) | Higher |
Is split cowhide real leather?
Yes. Split leather is defined as a layer of a tanned hide. It is not the same as bonded leather, which is shredded fibres re-formed into sheets and does not count as leather under European definitions. Look for the words "split," "suede" or a coating on the label.
Where to see cowhide goods
The Leather Collection catalog does not list split leather. Its Leather Collection men's leather bags are mostly cowhide, which the store calls firm and strong. The page does not say which layer of the hide is used, so ask before you buy.
Related guides
- A split has no grain side; read about the flesh side of leather.
FAQ
What are the differences between split leather and suede?
Split is a layer of the hide; suede is a napped finish. Cowhide splits are often sueded, but most suede is made from lamb, goat, calf or deer skin. Some shoemakers also make suede from full-grain leather worn flesh side out.
How do you split leather?
After hair and fat are removed, a splitting machine divides the hide horizontally into layers.
What is the difference between split leather and genuine leather?
Split leather names a layer of the hide. "Genuine leather" is a label, not a grade, and is often put on split leather.
HitKB Editorial Team
HitKB articles are researched from published sources, cited in the text, and reviewed before publication.