Leather Types
What Is Suede Leather?
Suede leather is real leather with a napped finish, made from the underside of the skin. Which animals, split vs reverse suede, faux suede and downsides.
Suede leather is real leather with a fuzzy, napped finish, made from the underside of the animal skin. It is softer and more pliable than the outer layer but less durable. As one shoemaker puts it, suede is leather, but not all leather is suede.
This definition is part of our guide to leather types, textures and finishes. For close-up looks and colors, see what suede looks like.
Suede leather meaning
Dictionaries define suede as leather whose surface has been made slightly rough, so it is soft but not shiny. The word comes from the French gants de Suède, "gloves from Sweden", and suede was first used for women's gloves.
Which animals and which layer
Most suede is lamb, with goat, calf and deer also common. Younger or smaller animals are preferred because adult skins give a coarse, shaggy nap. Splits from thick cow and deer hides are sueded too, with a shaggier nap.
Reverse suede is close to roughout leather.
In this video, Stridewise tours the Charles F. Stead tannery in Leeds, England, where the technical director shows chrome-tanned hides being shaved, dyed, dried and buffed into suede, then compares several kinds, including reverse calf suede and kudu suede. The tannery's view that suede is far less delicate than its reputation is one side of the disagreement set out in the wet-suede section below.
| Kind | What it is | Fact |
|---|---|---|
| Split suede | A lower layer split off a thick hide; the usual material for lined suede shoes | – |
| Reverse suede | Full-grain leather worn flesh side out, keeping the grain's strength | – |
| Suede calfskin (velours) | Described by one retailer as the flesh side of grain leather, not a split | – |
Real suede vs faux suede
Faux suede such as Ultrasuede is a microfiber fabric of polyester and polyurethane, not leather. In the US, a product made of non-leather material that looks like leather should say so, for example "Imitation leather".
Downsides of suede
- Less durable than full-grain leather, because it lacks the tough outer layer.
- Open pores, so it gets dirty and soaks up liquids quickly.
- Wax made for smooth leather, such as Dubbin, can ruin the nap and stain it.
Will suede be ruined if it gets wet?
Views differ. Wikipedia says excess moisture can damage suede, so it should not be washed with soap and water. A footwear publication says most suede is more water resistant than people think and that oily substances do more harm. Neither suede nor nubuck is fully waterproof. The side-by-side is in suede vs smooth leather.
Where to see suede
The Leather Collection grey lambskin suede gloves are 0.8-0.9 mm lambskin suede with a cashmere wool lining. The store's care notes: brush with a soft suede brush and keep the gloves away from water. Its suede range also covers jackets, pants and a shearling-lined bomber.
Related guides
- Suede is the flesh side, or an inner split, sanded to a nap; see what the flesh side of leather is.
FAQ
Is suede leather real leather?
Yes, unless the label says faux or microfiber. Real suede is the napped underside of an animal skin.
Which is better, suede or leather?
It depends on use. Suede is softer and lighter, while full-grain leather is more durable.
HitKB Editorial Team
HitKB articles are researched from published sources, cited in the text, and reviewed before publication.