Leather Types
Nubuck vs. Smooth Leather
Nubuck and smooth leather can come from the same hide; nubuck is sanded to a nap. Compare water, scratches and care, plus which to pick.
Nubuck and smooth leather can be cut from the same hide; what differs is the face. Smooth grain leather keeps its outer grain surface intact, while nubuck is grain leather that has been sanded or buffed into a short, velvety nap. Both are real leather: pick smooth for a wipe-clean surface that takes cream and polish, and nubuck for a soft matte look that you are willing to brush and protect.
This answer is part of our leather types guide.
Nubuck vs smooth leather at a glance
| Column 1 | Smooth (grain) leather | Nubuck |
|---|---|---|
| Surface | Grain left intact; finishing can include oiling, polishing or glazing | Grain sanded or buffed to a short nap |
| Grain layer | Kept; full-grain keeps all of it | Kept but sanded; today mostly cowhide or calfskin |
| Water drops | Can be oiled to resist water better | Darken it for a while, then dry back to the original color |
| Marks | Full-grain develops a patina with use | Resists wear but scratches easily |
| Cream and wax | Shoe cream, then waterproofer; dubbin wax is made for it | No cream and no dubbin; use a gentle spray that does not seal the surface |
Is nubuck real leather?
Yes. Nubuck is top-grain leather, and its name comes from "new buck", because it was first made from young deer hides. So it is not a coating or a fabric; the nap is the leather's own fibers.
One dictionary disagrees on the side. Collins says nubuck is rubbed on the flesh side, while Wikipedia and most leather sources say the grain side. Napping the underside is what makes suede; our nubuck vs suede page covers that split.
In this video, the International Leather Club shows nubuck close up and explains that it is made by sanding the grain side of the hide, not the underside as with suede. It also says nubuck was first made by Swedish craftsmen in the 19th century, a history our sources do not confirm.
Which lasts better day to day?
Nubuck holds up to wear but shows scratches easily, and it is stronger and thicker than suede. Smooth full-grain leather changes differently: it builds a patina as it is used. None of our sources tests the two side by side for abrasion, so we do not rank them on strength.
Is nubuck okay to get wet?
A splash is fine. Water drops darken nubuck only until it dries. It is more water-resistant than suede but not waterproof, and its open pores need a spray that does not seal them. Smooth leather can take cream and a waterproofer, or oil. Full care steps are in how to care for nubuck leather.
Nubuck in a jacket
A nubuck bomber in the Leather Collection men's bomber jackets range is cut from 0.8-0.9 mm (about 1/32 in) cowhide with a nubuck finish. The store notes it shows marks more easily than plain leather, so brush it gently and keep it dry. For a plain grain surface, see what smooth leather is.
FAQ
Can you put oil or wax on nubuck?
Avoid dubbin wax: it is made for smooth leather and can flatten the nap and stain nubuck. Use a protector made for open-pored leather instead.
Does nubuck scratch easily?
Yes. It resists wear, but scratches show easily.
Is nubuck better than smooth leather?
Neither is a higher grade. Both are grain leather; they differ in finish and care. For how leather grades work, see what genuine leather means.
HitKB Editorial Team
HitKB articles are researched from published sources, cited in the text, and reviewed before publication.