Leather Types
Nubuck vs. Suede: Key Differences
Nubuck is grain leather sanded to a short nap; suede is napped on the underside. Compare strength, water, price and how to tell them apart.
Nubuck is grain leather sanded on its outer face into a short nap, while suede is leather napped on its underside, the flesh side. That one difference drives the rest: nubuck is stronger, thicker and usually pricier, and suede is softer but less durable. Both are real leather.
This answer is part of our leather types guide.
Nubuck vs suede at a glance
| Column 1 | Nubuck | Suede |
|---|---|---|
| Side that is napped | Grain (outer) side, sanded or buffed | Underside of the skin |
| Usual hides | First young deer; today mostly cowhide or calfskin | Mainly lamb; goat, calf and deer are common, and cow and deer splits are sueded too |
| Nap | Short and fine | Fuzzy; shaggy on splits from thick hides |
| Strength and durability | Stronger and thicker than suede | Less durable than full-grain leather |
| Water | More water-resistant than suede, not waterproof | Absorbs liquids quickly |
| Price | Generally the more expensive of the two | Generally the cheaper of the two |
Which side of the hide?
Most sources put nubuck on the outside and suede on the inside. One dictionary disagrees on nubuck: Collins says it is rubbed on the flesh side, while Wikipedia says the grain side.
Suede is not always a split. It can come from the layer left after the grain is cut away. A French shoe retailer also describes suede calfskin (velours) as the flesh side of a full grain skin, brushed so small filaments show. The same retailer says nubuck sanding cannot hide flaws, so it needs a good skin.
In this short video, a shoemaker from Bridlen Shoemaker holds up nubuck and suede shoes and explains that nubuck is full-grain leather sanded on top, while suede usually comes from the split layer cut away beneath it. As noted above, suede can also be the flesh side of a full-grain skin, so "split" is the common case, not the only one.
How to tell them apart
Look at the nap. Nubuck's is short and even; suede's is fuzzier, and coarse on thick splits. A drop of water darkens nubuck only until it dries. More on the look of suede is in what suede looks like.
What happens if nubuck or suede gets wet?
Neither is waterproof, and both benefit from a waterproofing treatment. Suede soaks up liquid fast; too much moisture damages it, so it should not be washed with soap and water or in a machine. Both are open-pored and need a gentle spray that does not seal the surface. Dubbin wax is for smooth leather and can stain either. Wider care topics sit in our leather properties and care guide.
Where to see both finishes
If you want to compare them on one jacket design, the Leather Collection custom leather jackets list suede and nubuck among the finish options, on sheepskin, goatskin, cowhide or buffalo. The store's ready-made examples are a 0.8-0.9 mm (about 1/32 in) cowhide nubuck bomber and a 0.9-1.0 mm (about 1/25 in) goatskin suede jacket.
For nubuck against a plain grain, see nubuck vs smooth leather.
FAQ
Are suede and nubuck the same?
No. Both have a nap, but nubuck is sanded on the grain side and suede is napped on the underside.
What is more expensive, nubuck or suede?
Nubuck is generally more expensive.
What are the disadvantages of nubuck leather?
It scratches easily, is not waterproof, and should not get dubbin wax. The full definition is in what nubuck leather is.
HitKB Editorial Team
HitKB articles are researched from published sources, cited in the text, and reviewed before publication.