Leather Types
Suede vs. Smooth Leather
Suede is leather napped on the underside; smooth leather keeps the grain. Compare durability, water, care and which to choose for your use.
Suede is leather too; the difference is which face you see. Smooth grain leather shows the tough outer layer of the skin, while suede shows a napped underside. Choose smooth grain for durability and easy wiping, and suede for a softer, lighter piece you will keep out of the rain.
This answer is part of our leather types guide.
Suede vs leather at a glance
| Column 1 | Suede | Smooth grain leather |
|---|---|---|
| Face | Napped underside of the skin | Grain left intact |
| Look | Matte, slightly rough | Can be polished or glazed |
| Durability | Less durable and softer than full-grain | Full-grain is usually rated highest and builds a patina |
| Water | Soaks up liquid; no soap-and-water washing | Can be oiled to resist water better |
| Care products | No cream; waterproofer only, in a spray that does not seal | Shoe cream, then waterproofer |
| Usual hides | Mainly lamb; also goat, calf, deer and cow splits | Any; cattle give about 65% of all leather |
Is suede low quality leather?
Not by definition. Suede is a finish, a nap raised on the underside, while split is a layer: what remains after the grain is cut away. Many suedes are splits, and cow splits give a shaggy nap. Some suede is instead the flesh side of a full skin, per one French shoe retailer.
What suede lacks is the tough outer layer, so it wears less well than full-grain. A split can also be coated and embossed to look like grain; that is bicast, not suede. For label terms, see what genuine leather means.
In this video, Tanner Leatherstein explains that suede is the flesh side of the skin, that most suede today is cut from cow splits, and that quality runs from coarse pigskin linings to very fine calf suede taken from unsplit skins. That matches the point above that suede is a finish while split is a layer; the closing minutes are his opinion of one designer bag.
What happens if suede gets wet?
Water, salt and oils can stain or wear it, and too much moisture damages it. One maker's care advice: let a wet suede jacket dry at room temperature, away from heaters. Smooth leather gets the same room-temperature drying, and never a dryer. More is in our leather care guide.
Which should you choose?
- Daily wear in wet weather: smooth grain; it can be oiled and creamed.
- A soft, light jacket or gloves: suede; its thinness and pliability suit clothing.
- Want a nap but tougher: look at nubuck, which is sanded grain; see nubuck vs suede and nubuck vs smooth leather.
Same thickness, two faces
Two jackets from one store show the trade-off at equal thickness. The Leather Collection beige suede jacket is 0.9-1.0 mm (about 1/25 in) goatskin suede, and its care notes ask you to brush it and keep it out of heavy rain. The same store's lambskin blazer is also 0.9-1.0 mm, in a plain smooth finish.
FAQ
What material is made by buffing the underside of a hide to a soft textured finish?
Suede. What it looks like up close is in what suede looks like.
What are the differences between split leather and suede?
Split is a layer of the hide; suede is a napped finish that is often, but not always, applied to a split.
What is the lowest quality of leather called?
In the US, bonded leather made from shredded fibers should not be sold simply as "leather".
HitKB Editorial Team
HitKB articles are researched from published sources, cited in the text, and reviewed before publication.