Leather Types
What Is Roughout Leather?
Roughout is full-grain leather worn flesh side out, nothing split or sanded. How it differs from suede and nubuck, the water-resistance debate and care.
Roughout leather is full-grain leather turned over so the flesh side faces out, with nothing split off and nothing sanded away. It is also called reverse leather, fleshout or full-grain suede. So yes, it is real hide: the same leather as a smooth boot, worn the other way round.
This definition is part of our guide to leather types, textures and finishes. Other napped finishes are compared in nubuck vs suede.
Roughout vs suede vs nubuck
All three have a fuzzy nap. What differs is which side faces out and how much of the hide is kept.
One shoemaker uses "reverse suede" and "rough-out" for the same full-grain, flesh-out leather. Names overlap, so ask which side faces out. For the split version, see what suede leather is.
| Leather | Side facing out | Layer kept | Fact |
|---|---|---|---|
| Roughout | Flesh side | Full hide, grain intact on the inside | – |
| Split suede | Napped split | A lower layer split off a thick hide | – |
| Full-grain (reverse) suede | Flesh side, buffed to an even nap | Grain intact; slightly thinner than roughout | – |
| Nubuck | Grain side, buffed | Top grain | – |
Why boot and saddle makers use it
- Boots: Red Wing says it has used roughout since its founding in 1905.
- Wear: with no polished top layer, scuffs blend into the surface and scratches soften. A footwear publication puts the appeal down to a fairly static look that hides wear.
- Unlined shoes: the full-grain backing gives the strength to hold shape without a lining.
- Saddles: Western saddles use rough out on seats, seat jockeys and fenders, where riders want grip.
In this video, the cowboy boot maker Chisos explains roughout as a full-grain hide turned flesh side out, then shows new, medium-worn and ranch-worn pairs so you can see how scuffs blend into the nap. It calls roughout excellent at water resistance, citing its own hose demonstration; that is the anecdotal claim covered in the water-resistance section below, where another source disagrees.
Is roughout leather water resistant?
Sources disagree. A cowboy boot maker says it has excellent water resistance, based on anecdotal hose demonstrations. Stitchdown says roughout is not chosen for being more water resistant than the grain side. One boot maker suggests a suede spray to add water resistance while keeping the rough texture.
How to care for roughout
- Brush the nap when it mats down. Makers suggest a stiff nylon brush or a light wire brush.
- Test products first. Oils and creams can darken the rough side.
- Skip boot wax unless you want a change: it alters the color and texture.
Stitchdown says roughout can go a long time before it needs conditioning.
Where to see a napped finish
Nothing in the Leather Collection catalog is listed as roughout or rough out. The closest finish it sells is suede: the Leather Collection beige suede jacket is 0.9-1.0 mm goatskin suede. For how napped and smooth faces compare, see suede vs smooth leather.
FAQ
Is roughout leather real leather?
Yes. It is a full-grain hide worn flesh side out.
What is the difference between leather and roughout leather?
Only the side you see. Smooth leather shows the grain; roughout shows the flesh side of the same full hide.
HitKB Editorial Team
HitKB articles are researched from published sources, cited in the text, and reviewed before publication.